Google Earth foto van Montepulciano Geweldige panorama's aan de zijkanten van de (boven)stad (eigen foto)
Avignonesi: the story of
Virginie Saverys
and a precious tasting
organised by Amicitia Lovaniensis on 2 December 2011
It does not happen every day: be invited as 'Honorary Member ' by Amicitia Lovaniensis to a tasting of Avignonesi. And better still: to sit at the table with owner and CEO Virginie Saverys. It happened to us on 2 December in the Faculty Club of Leuven, at a 'ladies' night', ably introduced and led by Vice-President Paula Van Eupen.
Why were we eagerly looking forward to this event? First of all for the sake of Tuscany and its "noble" town of Montepulciano. The name starts with 'Monte', and one has to take this literally. The Google Earth picture above doesn't quite reveal this fact. Montepulciano, seen from above, takes the shape of a human figure lying head down. However, when one passes the city gate as a pedestrian, one soon starts climbing the 'Via di Gracciano'. This via is full of stately mansions, colourful shops, a Palace of Justice, a church, the Art Deco café Poliziano, and on top of all that comes the Piazza, with the stately City Hall. Its highlight is the Watchtower from where one has a wonderful view over the surrounding valleys and hills. Simply stated: Montepulciano is more than just a wine city, it is a true cultural habitat, with exhibits, festivals, parades, historical buidlings and more. We once bought a calendar there, with nothing but pictures of impressive oak entry doors, with an incredible variety of colours, shapes and decorations. One big problem though: how does one find a parking spot in this tourist sanctuary, where the police is watching?
When it comes to wine though, the most famous name is Avignonesi. Till a few years ago, visitors could enter their impressive shop right at the intrance of town, near the "Marzocco" column. Due to a family quarrel, this shop has now been closed, although the address is still traceable in Google Earth. The 'mother house' is now situated in the Le Capuzzine domain, on the road from Montepulciano to Cortona.
Yet Montepulciano is more than Avignonesi. Two of our favorite wineries are the qualitative local cooperative, and the family business of Valdipiatta, whih we visited several times. In Café Poliziano, they do serve and sell their fruity-spicy Vino Nobile and the expressieve white Nibbiano, which we took home indeed.
Let's come back to Avignonesi. Where does the name come from? According to V. Saverys it indeed has to do something with the city of Avignon at the time of the "Italian Popes of Avignon". The winery acquired its renown only after 1974, when Ettore Falvo married Adriana Avignonesi. The Falvo's owned vineyards in Cortona, the Avignonesi's in Montepulciano.
Instead of selling their grapes to the local cooperative, they decided to start making wine themselves under the name of Avignonesi. Ettore initiated a radical renewal, both in terms of vineyard management as in terms of planting "worldly grapes" such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc.
Virginie Saverys, daughter of the well-known shipping company owner Philippe Saverys (Cie Maritime Belge), started her professional carreer as a lawyer in her father's business. As a form of investment, she bought 30% of Avignonesi shares in 2007, got more interested in the winery itself, and therefore purchased 90% in 2008, and the entire company in 2009. Eyebrows in Montepulciano were more than raised: Avignonesi in the hands of 'una Fiammingha', non é vero!. But she rapidly acquainted herself with the local culture, and gave a new impetus to the business.
A few quotes from her speech-with-classy- Ppt-presentation on 2 December:
*"Yes, I a m ambitious, and want to elevate this great winery to a higher level"
"We are into biodynamics, using biodynamic preparations and techniques and applying the well-known planetic calendar of M. Thun; yet we also use copper sulphate, because - for the time being - there is no alternative; and as to sulphites there is too much ado about almost nothing"
*We invited ENITA of Bordeaux to analyse our different soils, and the results confirmed the diversity and quality of our various vineyards' * "the demand for our wines surpasses today's supply, therefore I try to buy new vineyards, up and above the 130 ha we already own" * "Our Vin Santo is world famous yet also pricy, but you can keep it for a whole year in the refrigerator and take a few drops every day" * "Whereas my team disagreed, I decided to downgrade our 2009 Vino Nobile into Rosso di Montepulciano, due to its inferior quality, and sold the entire contingent to a purchaser for a British supermarket" * "I have been in charge only since 2009 , hence I cannot be made responsible for the wines that have now been produced before" ...
As one can see: this is the language of someone who is both ambitious and duly skilful as a winemaker because of her recent professional training, and also takes up the role of a business manager and tough decision maker.
Having seen and heard all this, we were curious to see what we were going to get in the glass.
On the programme: white Bianco 2010 and Marzocco 2009, Red rosso di Toscana 2008 and Rosso di Montepulciano 2010, Vino Nobile 2008 and Vino Nobile Grandi Annati 2007, and finally the Desiderio 2007. According to many wine writers as wel as to Licata, who sells the wines mentioned above,Desiderio is the "crown jewel" of the House.
For us it was that all too alcoholic, too sweet and overprijsd (€ 45)
Below our tasting notes for 5 wines:
Notice: wines 4&5 were accompanied by a magnificent dish: Tournedos of young deer with glaced Belgian andive, Jonagold apple, and mousse of green cole and sellery. Juice of red wine and truffles!
Proefnotities - Tasting notes
Score-syste(e)m:
C= Foutief, faulty B= Gewoon goed, reasonably good B+= Grenzend aan zeer goed, close to very good A= Heel goed, grote kwaliteit; very good, high quality A+= Grenzend aan Uitstekend; close to excellent AA= Uitstekend; excellent AAA= Absolute top
PS: Wijnen die op proefmoment beschikbaar waren, kunnen uitgeput zijn.
Wines available at moment of tasting, can be depleted
Prijzen op moment van proeven
Prices noted at tasting
AVIGNONESI BIANCO DOC CORTONA 2010 - Italia -
2010
Voor het oog: stro- tot citroengeel, mooie spiegel, heel helder
To the eye: lemony green, very clear, nice mirror
Aan de neus:
elegante fruitige neus met perzik en pompelmoes, ook gekonfijt geel fruit, foraal en met citrustoets At the nose:
elegant fruity nose with peach and grapefruit, also confied yellow fruit, foral, with touch citrus
In de mond:
beendroge pittige smaakaanzet met weer het rijpe fruit en een citrustoets, ingepakt in fijne zuren en met een bittertje in de middellange elegante afdronk In the mouth:
bonedry zesty onset with again the ripe white fruit and citrus embedded in fine acid and with a nice bitter touch in the semilong elegant finish
Conclusie
een tegelijk fruitige en elegante maar ook pittige blend, tegelijk ook heel fris: absolute aperitiefwijn. En voor Avignonesi een vrij redelijke prijs
Conclusion
both fruity and elegant yet also zesty white blend, with quite refreshing acid: absolute aperitif wine. Reasonably priced
Drink bij:
Zoals we hogerop al zegden: vooral aperitiefwijn. Verder bij zomerse slaatjes Drink with:
As we said above: first and foremost aperitif wine. Further also with summer salads
Score CAA: A Score /100: 82
Prijs: 9.99 €
Verkrijgbaar bij / Available at: Licata n.v. Duifhuisweg 12, DIEPENBEEK Tel. 011 22 20 37 www.licata.be
Varia:
licata,be:"De Bianco heeft een lichtgele kleur met een exotisch boeket. De smaak is zuiver en fris met aangename impressies van tropisch fruit. Frisse afdronk.""light yellow hue, exotic nose. Pure palate, fresh, exotic impression"
Datum besproken / date discussed:
12/2/2011
AVIGNONESI IL MARZOCCO DOC CORTONA CHARDONNAY 2007 - Italia -
2010
Voor het oog: stevig tranend goudgeel met amber schijn en wat evolutie (alcohol!)
To the eye: quite viscous gold-to-amber, with some evolution (alcohol)
Aan de neus:
romige en getoaste chardonnayneus (eik!), met ook vanille en een duidelijke graniettoets At the nose:
creamy toasty chardonnay nose (oak!), with also vanilla and a clear touch of granite
In de mond:
krachtige romige smaakaanzet met exotisch fruit en herkenbare alcohol, kruidig ook en met voldoende zuren om de balans in evenwicht te houden; lange fruitig-kruidige afdronk In the mouth:
zesty creamy onset with exotic fruit and tastable alcohol, spicy as well with enough acid to keep the balance; long fruity-spicy finish
Conclusie
Een chardonnay waaraan heel wat medeproevers een "Meursault-van-het-vettige-type" karakter toeschreven: romig, kruidig, exotisch, beklijvend, "een knabbelwijn". Wel heel prijzig! Grens A+/AA
Conclusion
A chardonnay to which quite some co-tasters ascribed a "fat round Meursault character": creamy,exotic, spicy, impressive, a "wine to chew on". Also pricy!
Drink bij:
Zulke "blockbuster" vraagt om krachtige schotels: gegrilde koekoek met romig-kruidige saus, blauw geaderde kazen of pecorino, zeeduivel met kreeftensaus Drink with:
this "blockbuster" requires tasty dishes: grilled fowl with spicy creamy sauce, tasty blue cheeses or pecorino, devil fish with lobster sauce
Score CAA: A+ Score /100: 89
Prijs: 26.8 €
Verkrijgbaar bij / Available at: Licata n.v. Duifhuisweg 12, DIEPENBEEK Tel. 011 22 20 37 www.licata.be
Varia:
R. Parker on earlier version:"loads of spicy, smoky new oak in the nose, a creamy texture, good ripeness, but monolithic personality, and attractive orange/kirsch-like fruit flavors" Similar! "veel kruidige toasty nieuwe eik, romig, rijp,wat monolitisch"
Datum besproken / date discussed:
12/2/2011
AVIGNONESI ROSSO DI TOSCANA 2008 - Montepulciano -
2008
Voor het oog: donkere kers met lichte evolutie, stevig tranend
To the eye: dark cherry with slight evolution, solid legs
Aan de neus:
eerst wat gesloten, dan elegante neus van kleinrood fruit, viooltjes, vanille en licht getoaste eik At the nose:
a bit closed at first, then elegant nose of small dark red fruit, violets, vanilla and lightly toasted oak
In de mond:
sappige en frisfruitige aanzet met heel wat kersenfruit en pruimen, waarbij ook de vanille- en eiktoets terugkeert; rijpfruitige vrij lange afdronk met zijdige tannines; kers in de retro In the mouth:
juicy freshly fruity onset with a lot of cherry and plum flavours, and also the vanilla and fresh oak that we smelled before; ripe fruity fairly long finish with silky tannin; cherry in the retronasal phase
Conclusie
Een rosso naar ons hart (en dat van veel proevers): heel fruitig, maar ook fris, floraal en ingebed in fijne eik - een ware kersenwijn. En redelijk geprijsd
Conclusion
A rosso as we like it best (and many tasters with us): very fruity (cherry!), yet also fresh and floral, embedded in fine oak. Reasonably priced
Drink bij:
deze wijn kan je op en om zichzelf genieten zoals Nicholas Livingston in hoger geciteerde website schrijft. Verder haarwild (hazenrug met witlof!), halfharde romige kazen Drink with:
can be enjoyed on and by itself, as said on website quoted above. Further hair game (back of hare with Belgian andives!), and semihard creamy cheeses
Score CAA: A+ Score /100: 87
Prijs: 9.99 €
Verkrijgbaar bij / Available at: Licata n.v. Duifhuisweg 12, DIEPENBEEK Tel. 011 22 20 37 www.licata.be
Varia:
Artisanvineyards,com:"Amazing Sangiovese blend: with tea leaves, plum fruit, cloves and evergreen spices in an elegant red of marked finesse.""merkwaardige blend: theeblaadjes, pruim, kruidnagel, groene kruiden, elegant en heel verfijnd"
Datum besproken / date discussed:
12/2/2011
AVIGNONESI VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 2008 - Montepulciano -
2008
Voor het oog: geconcentreerd donker kersenkleurig met paarse rand, gespierd, stevig tranend
To the eye: concentrated clear dark cherry with purplish rim, muscled, solid legs
Aan de neus:
"nobele" neus met rijpe braam- en bosbes, bosgrond, viooltjes (duidelijk!) en kruiden At the nose:
"noble" nose with black- and blueberry, woodland, violets (clear touch!) and spices
In de mond:
tegelijk friszurig, fruitig en krachtig vanaf de aanzet, met nog stevige maar niet-aggressieve tannines; lange fruitig-kruidige afdronk In the mouth:
both freshly acid, fruity and zesty right from the onset, with solid yet non-aggressive tannin; long fruity-spicy finish
Conclusie
Maakt de roepnaam Nobile ten volle waar: volfruitig, friszurig, floraal-kruidig en ingepakt in stevige maar niet storende tannines. Kan nog 6-7 jaar mee. Wel prijzig
Conclusion
The fame of the "noble" name is fully confirmed here: full fruity, floral-spicy, freshly acid wine with good solid tannin. Will last through 2017. Pricy
Drink bij:
een ware eetwijn: kruidige pastaschotels, patrijs of fazant met groentenkrans Drink with:
a true dinner wine: spicy pasta dishes, partridge or pheasant with varied vegetables
Score CAA: AA Score /100: 91
Prijs: 20.97 €
Verkrijgbaar bij / Available at: Licata n.v. Duifhuisweg 12, DIEPENBEEK Tel. 011 22 20 37 www.licata.be
Varia:
www.laurelhurstwm.com:"delicate and intense, with slight scent of violet; taste is dry with a hint of tannic. Serving suggestions: ideal with roast and grilled meat, game and mature cheeses.""delikaat, intens, viooltjesgeur, droog, toets tannine"
Datum besproken / date discussed:
12/2/2011
AVIGNONESI VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO RESERVA GRANDI ANNATE 2007 - Montepulciano -
2008
Voor het oog: geconcentreerd robijnkleurig met paarse rand, gespierd, stevig tranend
To the eye: concentrated clear ruby with purplish rim, muscled, solid legs
Aan de neus:
rijke rijpe neus met framboos en kers, peper en thijm, zoethout en heel duidelijk ook viooltjes At the nose:
wealthy ripe nose with raspberry and cherry, pepper and thyme, licorice and clearly also violets
In de mond:
mondvullende en sappige aanzet met weer het rijpe fruit, doorsmakende tannines en fijne zuren; lange fruitige en kruidige afdronk, lichtjes uitdrogend In the mouth:
mouthfilling and juicy onset with again all the ripe fruit, tasty tannin and fine acid; long fruity and spicy finish, slightly drying out
Conclusie
Dat 2007 een groot jaar was in Toscane wordt ook hier aangetoond: veel donkerrood fruit, florale tonen, smakelijke tannines en zuren die de balans garanderen. Kan nog een tiental jaar mee. Grote wijn, supergrote prijs
Conclusion
We know that 2007 was a great vintage in Tuscany, and it is prooved here in each dimension: lots of dark red fruit, floral tones, tasty tannin and balancing acid. Will last through 2020. Super wine, super price
Drink bij:
laat de wildschotels, stoofpotjes, kruidige pasta's maar komen! Drink with:
let the game dishes, stews, spicy pasta dishes come!
Score CAA: AA Score /100: 90
Prijs: 64.9 €
Verkrijgbaar bij / Available at: Licata n.v. Duifhuisweg 12, DIEPENBEEK Tel. 011 22 20 37 www.licata.be
Varia:
licata,be:"Rood snoepgoed, aardbeien en kersen. Sappige aanzet met volle en moderne smaak. Ook kruidige impressies. Moderne stijl.""Red sweets, strawberry and cherry. Juicy onset with full and modern taste. Spicy as well. Modern style"
Vigna Tonda: experiment in "rosace" 
City Hall with Watch Tower 
Voor het oog: 
Aan de neus: 
In de mond: 
Drink bij: