Getting to knwo Simonsig with Peter Malan

 


         Pioneer Frans Malan

 

On Wednesday 2 July, we were invited to get to know both "Mr Malan" and his Simonsig wines. The Simonsig winery near Stellenbosch in South Africa is a family business now in its 9th generation. Simonsig means "sight of the Simon mountain" (see picture). The tasting was organized by a Flemish-South African couple: Geert Hoebrechts and Hanani Pinaer. Hanani is a former SA journalist, who, later, went to study medicine and came to Leuven in Belgium to specialize in gynaecology. Besides that, she is a gentle wine fanatic, who used to write about wine before, and now wants to promote wines from her country, especially Simonsig.

Our Mister Malan was nobody else but the marketing manager Peter Malan himself. He directs the winery, together with his brothers Johan (winemaker) and François (responsible for the 256 ha of vines!). Their father - Frans Malan - see picture - was the true pioneer of the house. The first ever SA sparkling was made by him back in 1972. He called it "Kaapse vonkel" or "sparkling from the Cape", and since then, the house has won several medals for this product. Five years later, Frans introduced the first 100% Chardonnay wine. But possibly, he will be remembered especially for his energetic promotion of typical SA-blends, always based on a large percentage of Pinotage plus Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Pinotage, as we know, is the original SA hybrid of Pinot Noir with Cinsault (erroneously called "Hermitage"). Pieter Malan soon won the hearts of the 20 or so tasters present by telling the story of Simonsig in his unique humouristic format. Some of his sayings: "wood is the last blow you can deal a wine" (meaning: exaggerated use of oak kills the wine); "Do you knwo what we mean when we say ABC?" "That's the alphabet" "No, we mean Anything but Chardonnay". "Why does a winemaker plant roses at the end of a row of vines?" "No, not for early detection of mildew, nor for the beauty of the flower, but for the purpose of warning plowing horses that they have reached the end of a row, and have to turn to the next one..."

In between, Mr Malan also mentioned the fact that the winery harbours some 30 black families, who get board and housing, and with edarly schooling possibilities for the children. We have seen this in a number of SA wineries while visiting the country.

On that summery evening, we got to taste nearly the whole upper range of Simonsig wines: from the "vonkelwijn", over Sauvignong Blanc and Chardonnay, down to the red treasures of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and the Frans Malan Rserve (a blend).  Only one was missing here, the well-known "Tiara" - which we will taste soon.

Below are our tasting notes. The conclusion can only be this: we get solid quality in the glass with fresh herblike sparkling, elegant fresh fruity whites and broad spectre, deep and rich reds. The wines may not be cheap, yet Stellenbosch quality deserves a price. In Belgium, one can get the wines at the following address: 

Geert Hoebrechts en Hanani Pienaar via
e-mail: geerthoebrechts@hotmail.com. of per telefoon 0479/23.94.10 -
016/23.97.25. Delivery in about 2 weeks, at the following address: Kardinaal Mercierlaan 71/2 3001 Heverlee (give us a ring before)
Proefnotities / tasting profile

Score-syste(e)m:

C=   Foutief, faulty
B=   Gewoon goed, reasonably good
B+= Grenzend aan zeer goed, close to very good
A=   Heel goed, grote kwaliteit; very good, high quality
A+= Grenzend aan Uitstekend; close to excellent
AA= Uitstekend; excellent
AAA= Absolute top

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SIMONSIG SAUVIGNON BLANC 2002 - South Africa - Stellenobosch
2002
Voor het oog:
helder strogeel met groene flits
To the eye:
clear straw with greenish reflection
Aan de neus:
typische Sauvignon Blanc neus: witte bloemen (dominant), wit fruit (perzik) en kruiden (groene peper)
At the nose:
typical Sauvignon Blanc: white flowers (dominant, like white lilies), white fruit (peach) and green pepper
In de mond:
tegelijk friszurige en verrassend fruitige aanzet, mondvullend, met een krachtige bitterbloemige finale
In the mouth:
both fresh and surprisingly fruity onset, mouthfilling and lots of matter, with a zesty bitter-floral long finish
Conclusie
Sauvignon van het krachtige bloemig-fruitige type: kan nog 3-4 jaar mee
Conclusion
Sauvignon of the crisp floral and fruity type: will last through 2006
Drink bij:
asperges-op-zijn-Vlaams, witlof met kaas en hesp, kruidige hapjes
Drink with:
asparragus with eggs and butterscotch, belgian andive with cheese and ham, spicy titbits
Score CAA: A
Score /100: 83
Prijs: 313 BEF - 7,8 €
Verkrijgbaar bij / Available at:
Geert Hoebrechts en Hanani Pienaar via
e-mail: geerthoebrechts@hotmail.com. of per telefoon 0479/23.94.10 -
016/23.97.25. Leveringstermijn bedraagt ongeveer 2 weken. Alles kan
afgehaald worden in de Kard. Mercierlaan 71/2 3001 Heverlee en dit op
afspraak.
Varia:
Peter Malan van Simonsig noemt dit zijn "favoriete wijn", en we begrijpen hem: kracht en frisheid gaan hand in hand. "My favourite says marketeer Pieter Malan of Simonsig.
Datum besproken / date discussed:
2/07/2003

SIMONSIG CHARDONNAY 2001 - South Africa - Stellenbosch
2001
Voor het oog:
diep goudgeel
To the eye:
deep gold
Aan de neus:
romig-exotische neus met lichte maar duidelijke eiktoets
At the nose:
creamy and exotic flavours, light but clear oak touch
In de mond:
mollige en fruitige aanzet, spoedig evoluerend naar een rokerig smaakpatroon dat ook blijft nazinderen in de vrij lange aangename afdronk
In the mouth:
smooth and fruity onset, soon evolving to a more smoky patter which lingers on the palate through the elegant failry long finish
Conclusie
Een romig-rokerige volronde Chardonnay, die complexer zal worden in 2004-5
Conclusion
a buttery-smoky and round Chardonnay, which will get more complex in 2004-5
Drink bij:
lichte vissoorten, gevogelte met kampernoeliesaus, zachte romige kaas
Drink with:
light fish dishes, poultry with mushrooms, smooth creamy cheeses
Score CAA: B+
Score /100: 77
Prijs: 314 BEF - 7,8 €
Verkrijgbaar bij / Available at: Komt eerstdaags op de markt - soon on the Belgian Market
Varia:
2001 was globaal geen groot jaar in Z-Afrika, en deze wijn, alhoewel aangenaam, mist een beetje diepte. 2001 was not a great year in S-Africa, and this smooth wine lacks somewhat depth
Datum besproken / date discussed:
2/07/2003

SIMONSIG CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2000 - South Africa - Stellenbosch
2000
Voor het oog:
vrij geconcentreerd robijnrood met lichtbruine rand
To the eye:
faifly concentrated ruby with light brownish rim
Aan de neus:
Op en top Cabernet: peper, braam- en bosbes, boskruiden, eiktoets. Wordt steeds fruitiger bij langer open staan
At the nose:
Clearly cabernet Sauvignon: mul- and bilberry, spices of the wood, green pepper, clear oak touch. Gets more fruity the longer it is open
In de mond:
frisfruitige aanzet, goede vulling, veel alcohol, en mooie krachtige lengte. Nog veel potentie
In the mouth:
fresh fruity onset, lots of matter, much alcohol, impressive length. Has still lots of potential
Conclusie
Een mooie Cabernet Sauvignon in Franse stijl gemaakt, met nog flink wat bewaarpotentieel
Conclusion
a nice French style Cabernet Sauvignon. Will get better until 2005-6
Drink bij:
pepersteak, lamsribbetjes, gerookte eendeborst
Drink with:
pepper steak, rib of lamb, smoked breast of duck
Score CAA: A
Score /100: 82
Prijs: 382 BEF - 9,5 €
Verkrijgbaar bij / Available at: Komt eerstdaags op de markt - soon on the Belgian Market
Varia:
www.sawineco.com: "Lifted characters of ripe blackberries infused with a cigar box, tobacco element and a spice lift define the nose. The palate has substantial weight... heaps of cassis, black currant and mulberry fruit…firm not overly aggressive tannin"
Datum besproken / date discussed:
2/07/2003

SIMONSIG FRANS MALAN RESERVE 1999 - South Africa - Stellenbosch
1999
Voor het oog:
geconcentreerd robijn, flink tranend
To the eye:
concentrated ruby, long legs
Aan de neus:
een waaier van geuren: donkere kers, vlier, kruiden, ceder, pruimen, bosbes, eik en ook rokerige toets
At the nose:
a panoply of flavours: dark cherry, elderberyy, spices, plums, cedar, bilberry,oak, and also, smoky touch
In de mond:
even breed smaakpalet van fruit (pruim, moerbei, vlier, kers), kruiden (peper) en eik, met een zalig sappig einde
In the mouth:
equally broad taste pattern of fruit (plums, elderberry, cherry), spices (pepper) and oak, with a succulent long finish
Conclusie
prachtige blend, uniek Zuidafrikaans: de donkerfruitige Pinotage (pruim en moerbei) met de kersenpitsmaak van Merlot en de kruidigheid van de Cabernet Sauvignon
Conclusion
wonderful typical South-Acfrican blend: the dark fruit of Pinotage with the cherrykernel taste of Merlot and the pepperiness of Cabernet.
Drink bij:
stoofschotels van gemarineerd wild met veenbessen en vijgen, kruidige kaas-in-de-oven met honig
Drink with:
marinated game stews with cranberry and figs, spicy cheese-in-the-oven with honey
Score CAA: AA
Score /100: 90
Prijs: 623 BEF - 15,5 €
Verkrijgbaar bij / Available at: Komt eerstdaags op de markt - soon on the Belgian Market
Varia:
85/100, Silver Medal Fairbairn Trophy 2002. www.nmk.co.za: "Ripe plum and sweet mulberry fruit reveals the Pinotage component on the nose while the deeper nutty, black berry fruits of the Cabernet and Merlot shine through on the palate." Hesitating A+/AA
Datum besproken / date discussed:
2/07/2003

SIMONSIG KAAPSE VONKEL 2001 - South Africa - Stellenbosch
2001
Voor het oog:
helder strogeel, heel fijn parelend
To the eye:
clear straw, very fine bubbles
Aan de neus:
een zacht gemengde neus van witte bloemen, kruiden en wit fruit (appel)
At the nose:
a smooth mixed nose of white flwoers, spices and white fruit (peach)
In de mond:
beendroge en vrij krachtige smaak met kruidigheid op de voorgrond, en bloemen en fruit op de achtergrond. Lange, friszurige afdronk
In the mouth:
bone dry and fairly powerful taste with spices at the foreground, and flowers and light fruit at the back. Long, fresh acid finish
Conclusie
een kruidig-bloemige "vonkelwijn" met licht fruit en frisse zuren
Conclusion
a spicy-floral "vonkelwyn" (lit. Sparkling wine) with light fruit and fres acidity
Drink bij:
frisse aperitiefwijn (een "maagopener"), ook bij gerookte vissoorten
Drink with:
fresh aperitif (stomach opener), also with smoked fish
Score CAA: B+
Score /100: 78
Prijs: 401 BEF - 10 €
Verkrijgbaar bij / Available at: Komt eerstdaags op de markt
Varia:
Simonsig was het eerste wijnbedrijf dat de "cap classique" of "méthode champenoise" invoerde in 1971. Frans Malan pioneered sparkling in South Africa in 1971. Won Veritas medals in '98 and '99
Datum besproken / date discussed:
2/07/2003

SIMONSIG MERINDOL SHIRAZ 2000 - South Africa - Stellenbosch
2000
Voor het oog:
jong fel geconcentreerd robijn (bij walsen blijft rode schijn aan glas kleven)
To the eye:
youthful thick ruby (whiule shaking, a red shine is tainting the glass)
Aan de neus:
gedroogde pruimen, leder, koffie, chocolade, veel alcohol
At the nose:
dry plums, leather, coffe, chocolate, high degree of alcohol (14%)
In de mond:
wat je ruikt is wat je proeft: diepfruitige aanzet, tegelijk ook koffie en chocolade, dit alles ingebed in frisse zuren, met een zalige lange afdronk
In the mouth:
the promises of the nose are fulfilled in the mouth: explosive fruity onset, then coffee and chocolate pop up, and all this is embedded in fresh acid, leading to a long very pleasant finish
Conclusie
heeft ongeveer alles van een grote Shiraz: aromatische weelde, diepfruitige zijdeachtige textuur met grote lengte. Herinnert ons aan grote Australische Shiraz (bijv. Ebenezer) Mist voor sommigen misschien wel wat bitter-onderbouw
Conclusion
has all what a great Shiraz needs: aromatic wealth, deepfruity silky texture with ample length. Remionds us of great Australian Shiraz (like Ebenezer). To some, this will appear to lack somewhat bitterness
Drink bij:
krachtig kruidige vleesgerechten met doorsmakende groenten, Brillat-Savarin of andere krachtig-romige kazen
Drink with:
powerful spicy meat dishes with tasty vegetables, Brilla-Savarin or other zesty creamy cheeses
Score CAA: AA
Score /100: 90
Prijs: 804 BEF - 20,5 €
Verkrijgbaar bij / Available at: Komt eerstdaags op de markt - soon on the Belgian Market
Varia:
Two Medal winner Veritas 2002. www.grape.org: "Lively clean palate, firm tannins, loads of fruit (CvZ: 17). Supple juicy palate, but short on concentration and one-dimensional (AL: 13).
Datum besproken / date discussed:
2/07/2003

 

Finally: this is the "vision" and the "goals" of Simonsig (from their website www.simonsig.co.za):

 
 

 

Walter Leirman, 15/08/03